Speed Control Models: Atom, Cyclone (all models), Tempest Pro, Tempest MAX, Hammer, Racer, Racer-EX, Duster II, Duster, Rooster, and Super Rooster

The information in this Trouble-Shooting Guide relates to both forward and reversible type Novak speed controls that have the One-Touch feature. This guide contains information to help determine if there are any installation problems in your system. Sections contained in this guide list the problems with their solutions.

If you do not find the solution, or if your problem is not addressed, we recommend re-reading your instruction manual for additional information as well as looking through the topics covered in our Technical Information and How to Guide sections of our website. If your speed control needs to be sent in for repair service, refer to our Customer Service section.

TOPICS COVERED:

• One-Touch Set-Up
• Radio Glitching
• Overheating
• Loss of Throttle Control
• Brakes are Weak or Fade
  

• Set-up LED stays red and pressing the Set-Up button has no effect. No signal from the receiver to the ESC. Check the wiring sequence of the receiver harness. Check for damaged wires in the receiver harness. Try swapping the ESC plug with the servo plug to check for problems with the throttle channel on the receiver.

• Set-up procedure begins but unable to get the green LED. ESC is plugged into incorrect receiver slot. ESC should plug into channel 2 of the receiver. Try swapping the ESC and servo plugs in the receiver, then test the throttle channel with a servo for proper operation. ESC not getting enough "electronic throw" for set-up procedure. Adjust transmitter throttle throw rates and endpoints to their maximum positions.

• Set-up procedure begins but unable to get the blinking green LED. ESC not getting enough "electronic throw" for set-up procedure. Adjust transmitter throttle throw rates and end points to their maximum positions. Adjust transmitter mechanical settings to allow maximum trigger push travel.

More information on One-Touch Set Up.

• Incorrect receiver placement. This is the most critical area for radio noise. Keep the receiver and the antenna away from all of the electronics. The battery, motor, speed control, and the motor and battery wires all radiate radio noise and can cause radio interference. Even a metal or graphite chassis can funnel radio noise from these components to the receiver. Try mounting the receiver on its edge. Try mounting the receiver on different edges by rotating the receiver. Certain components in the receiver can be polarized in relation to the interference, making one orientation better than the other.

• Bad electrical connections. Check the electrical connections on the battery pack, battery wires, motor wires, and receiver plugs. Check plugs for a tight fit and clean surfaces.

• Bad motor, servo, or battery pack. Sometimes the motor, servo, or the battery pack has a bad internal connection causing radio problems. Try replacing the motor, servo, and the battery pack, it would be best to replace one component at a time.

• Incorrect wire routing. If the positive and negative power wires are separated from each other, they will radiate noise between them. For the least amount of noise, keep power wire pairs twisted together. Add two or three twists to the red and black wires that go to the battery. Do the same to the red and blue wires that go to the motor. Keep the wires as short as possible and keep them away from metal or graphite chassis.

Damaged or missing motor capacitors. The motor capacitors supplied with the ESC are used to reduce the amount of radio interference generated by the motor. Replace if cracked, broken, or missing. Refer to How To Install Motor Capacitors for more information.

Damaged or missing Schottky diode. An external Schottky diode soldered at the motor will reduce radio noise by shunting the voltage and current spikes at the motor. Even if you have a speed control with a built-in Schottky diode, such as the Duster Sport, the current spikes must travel from the motor to the speed control which will increase radio noise. Refer to How To Install an External Schottky Diode for more information. NOTE: Never use Schottky diodes on reversible ESCs or damage will occur.

• Damaged or out of tune receiver. After extended use and crashes, the receiver can become damaged or out of tune. All receivers have sensitive tuning coils that can move as a result of a hard impact. If you suspect this is the problem, your receiver may need to be sent to the manufacturer for re-tuning.

• Damaged or incorrect crystals. Crystals can be damaged from hard impacts and the radio system will lose range or stop working. Also, always use matched crystal pairs supplied by the transmitter manufacturer. Different manufacturers use different crystal specifications that affect how the signal is processed. A mismatched pair might work in a radio system, but it will not have the range of the correct crystal set. Be sure the transmitter crystal is in the transmitter and the receiver crystal is in the receiver.

• Transmitter out of adjustment. It is best to use frequencies on or near the frequency that the transmitter came on. Jumping from one end of the band to the other will decrease your range. As you get more involved in R/C, you might consider upgrading your radio system. FM radio systems tend to have more range and are less susceptible to radio interference. Radios on 27 MHz may also give better performance. You might even consider a PCM style radio for improved range and noise immunity.

When your ESC overheats, the throttle is reduced and will eventually shut down completely. Overheating is caused by too much current through the ESC for the amount of cooling that it receives. The following are causes for overheating and thermal shut-down:

• Motor over-geared/over-timed. An over-geared motor will draw excessive current causing the ESC to overheat. Try a smaller pinion gear on the motor, or a larger gear on the axle or gear box.

• Shorted motor or bound transmission. A shorted motor or bound transmission causes excessive current. Remove motor and make sure transmission spins freely. Try replacing motor.

• Insufficient cooling to the speed control. ALWAYS use the supplied heat sinks. Adjust the heat sink fins for a snug fit over the transistors. Try placing the ESC so that air can flow through the heat sinks. Cut vents in the body to direct air over the speed control. Use the optional ESC cooling fan (#5645) to cool the heat sinks. Replacement heat sinks sets are available for purchase.

• Radio interference. Radio glitching can cause the ESC to rapidly switch between forward and brake. This stuttering can quickly overheat both the drive and brake transistors.

• Bad connection to the speed control. A bad or intermittent connection in the battery pack or wiring harness can cause direct current and voltage spikes to the speed control. Check plugs for a tight fit and clean surfaces. Try replacing the battery pack with a new pack. Keep wires from battery to the ESC, and ESC to the motor, as short as possible.

• ESC came in contact with water, moisture, or wet dirt. Sensitive electronics can be shorted or even damaged causing slow acceleration or high speed, causing the motor to run with the switch off, or causing the ESC to run at only one speed. If this happens, carefully remove the case and dry the ESC with compressed air or hair dryer.

• Using a high power servo on speed controls with a 0.5 amp BEC. Servos that draw high currents can cause a momentary loss of power to the ESC. Under abnormal circumstances, this can cause the ESC to malfunction. Also, check for defective or damaged servos.

• Short circuit in receiver harness wires. Check for short circuits or cuts in receiver harness wires from the ESC or servo.

• Static electricity discharge. If you are running on a carpet surface, static electricity can build up and zap the electronics in the car. Make sure the carpet has a grounding strap that connects it to a ground connection.

• Brake transistors are overheating. If the brake transistors overheat, the voltage drop increases and the brakes will lose power. Try replacing the external Schottky diode (if applicable). If the diode is missing or damaged, the brakes will overheat and fade. Even using an external Schottky diode on ESCs with built-in diodes will greatly reduce brake heating. Refer to How To Install an External Schottky Diode for more information.

• Motor magnets are weak or motor is over-geared. Try replacing the motor or using a smaller pinion gear on the motor or a larger spur gear on the axle or gear box.

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